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luvyablue256

Lawn care tips

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Anyone into lawn care? I'm thinking about tackling mine and trying to get a good quality look this year (deep green, etc). 

Any tips? I want to see how well I can do before giving up and going with a lawn care service. 

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Put out weed and feed now and then put down grass seed in about six weeks, or after the last freeze. Do the weed and feed now so it won't kill the new seedlings. Assuming you haven't fooled with your lawn in a while, I recommend you aerate your yard preferably using a machine but you can do it by hand. After you aerate, spread the new seed and also some starter fertilizer. Cover any bare spots with straw. It is best to do this before several days of rain, other wise you need to keep the lawn damp until the seedlings start to grow. Keep grass watered and the seed will grow pretty fast. I wouldn't cut it until it is about 2" high.

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17 hours ago, Former_Fan said:

Put out weed and feed now and then put down grass seed in about six weeks, or after the last freeze. Do the weed and feed now so it won't kill the new seedlings. Assuming you haven't fooled with your lawn in a while, I recommend you aerate your yard preferably using a machine but you can do it by hand. After you aerate, spread the new seed and also some starter fertilizer. Cover any bare spots with straw. It is best to do this before several days of rain, other wise you need to keep the lawn damp until the seedlings start to grow. Keep grass watered and the seed will grow pretty fast. I wouldn't cut it until it is about 2" high.

I'll try all of this.  I made progress in my backyard by adding some St. Augustine plugs but it is still trash.  My front is a steep incline under a pair of trees.  Any tips for that?

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1 hour ago, CreepingDeath said:

I'll try all of this.  I made progress in my backyard by adding some St. Augustine plugs but it is still trash.  My front is a steep incline under a pair of trees.  Any tips for that?

Do the trees put off a lot of shade? That can hurt. A few other things, trees use a lot of water and nutrients, so that can affect the grass, as well as being on a hill, the runoff can send the water downhill. You may have to water that area more often. Getting rid of the weeds in your yard early with a pre emergent is very important to having a nice lawn. I personally prefer fescue seed as it gives a thick green lawn, but you do have to keep it watered.

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ctm   

The weed control pre-emergent goes down when the ground temp reaches 55 degrees in the spring.  Mine went down about a week ago here in TN.  Then do it again in about 6 weeks.  That stops new weeds from germinating.  Do it every year.  Also use a weed killer in the spring.  Spray and/or use pellets.  Then spot spray with a hand sprayer as need.

 

Aerate and reseed in the fall. Preferably late Oct. before the fall rain starts.

 

Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) once in the fall and once in the spring.

 

It will probably take two full years to get your yard up to standards.  Probably the best and cheapest investment you can make for increased home value. 

 

The most knowledgeable people around are the people who manage the turf at golf courses.  Get to know one and pick his brain.

Edited by ctm

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GOAT9   

Have a bunch of beers, piss on the weeds to kill em. Shit on all the stuff you want to grown. And don't forget to tell them kids to stay off the lawn! If you are short on seeds hit up woolfolksuncle. He will lay his seed down for you at an affordable rate. 

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ctm   
On ‎3‎/‎4‎/‎2019 at 11:50 AM, CreepingDeath said:

I'll try all of this.  I made progress in my backyard by adding some St. Augustine plugs but it is still trash.  My front is a steep incline under a pair of trees.  Any tips for that?

Make sure you cut the low limbs (raise the canopy) on the trees.  It's healthy for the trees, looks better and allows more light for the grass. If it's a mature tree, then you probably shouldn't have a limb for at least the first 20 ft.  Pick a type of grass (creeping red fescue) to sew under the trees that thrives in the shade. Aerate and plant the grass in the fall.  Otherwise it may not be strong enough to survive the summer  heat and drought.

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nine   

For my yard, weeding is ridiculously easy at this time of year.  The weeds always get a bit of a headstart on the grass.....so for another week or two, pretty much anything that's already green can be ripped out.   And the weeds come out easy, because the roots are still shallow and the ground is still soft and saturated from all the rain we've had.   (I did some weeding last weekend;  what would have taken me an hour to do in the summertime only took 15-20 minutes...and probably prevented hours of weeding this summer.)

 

One of the big mistakes people make is cutting their grass too short, so it never has a chance to grow in thick and lush.    Set your mower blade at the highest or next-to-highest setting.  I always let my grass grow at least 2-3" high...and my yard is consistently one of the better-looking yards in the neighborhood with relatively minimal upkeep and maintenance.   

 

One of my best friends is a bit obsessive and mows his lawn 2-3 times a week...but he cuts it way too short, so it never really grows in thick and it only looks really good right after he finishes.   Within a day or two, it starts looking rough again....and when it starts looking scruffy, he decides it's time to mow it again.   When he asked how I got my grass to look so good, I told him that if he'd just let it grow in for a week or two before cutting it, his grass would look a lot better.   He gets it...but he can't help himself.

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Depending on what type of grass you have, it's gonna take 3 years to get there unless you sod it. I'd be happy to give you a recommended schedule and the product you'll need to buy throughout the year. Everything must be done in order: right product, right amount, right time. 

 

Follow this schedule, separating each treatment/application by 1-1.5 mos. 

 

1.) Pre Spring (now in TN) -- put down a slow release fertilizer with preemergent crabgrass prevention.

2.) After last frost -- first weed killer, slow release fertilizer.

3.) End of Spring -- weed n feed or some weed killer/fert. (you can now start walking around and spot treating weeds with liquid.)

*Side note: it's a good idea to start watering if we have prolonged times between rain. Do it in the morning or evening right before sun comes up or goes down. 

4.) Try not to treat during the hottest parts of the Summer. Do water. Spot treat crabgrass, johnson and any Summer annuals that pop up.

5.) Pre-Fall slow release fertilizer. Spot treat weeds. Do a lime treatment. Water after lime or at least next day (you could test soil but really not necessary as fertilizer will make soil more acidic over time.)

6.) Fall aeration. The first year, you might want to do a double aeration. Seed--pick the right seed/cultivar for what you want, usually a blend-- directly after aeration with your preferred grass. (keep in mind Fescue requires watering in the Summer and Bermuda will go dormant in the Winter.) 

7.) Before winter, slow release fertilizer. 

 

Repeat x3. 

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Opus74   
On 3/15/2019 at 12:08 PM, SleepingTitan said:

Depending on what type of grass you have, it's gonna take 3 years to get there unless you sod it. I'd be happy to give you a recommended schedule and the product you'll need to buy throughout the year. Everything must be done in order: right product, right amount, right time. 

 

Follow this schedule, separating each treatment/application by 1-1.5 mos. 

 

1.) Pre Spring (now in TN) -- put down a slow release fertilizer with preemergent crabgrass prevention.

2.) After last frost -- first weed killer, slow release fertilizer.

3.) End of Spring -- weed n feed or some weed killer/fert. (you can now start walking around and spot treating weeds with liquid.)

*Side note: it's a good idea to start watering if we have prolonged times between rain. Do it in the morning or evening right before sun comes up or goes down. 

4.) Try not to treat during the hottest parts of the Summer. Do water. Spot treat crabgrass, johnson and any Summer annuals that pop up.

5.) Pre-Fall slow release fertilizer. Spot treat weeds. Do a lime treatment. Water after lime or at least next day (you could test soil but really not necessary as fertilizer will make soil more acidic over time.)

6.) Fall aeration. The first year, you might want to do a double aeration. Seed--pick the right seed/cultivar for what you want, usually a blend-- directly after aeration with your preferred grass. (keep in mind Fescue requires watering in the Summer and Bermuda will go dormant in the Winter.) 

7.) Before winter, slow release fertilizer. 

 

Repeat x3. 

8.)  Call Ronaldo.

9.)  Write a check.

 

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